Wilder Soldering Flux

Adam Wilder flux photo etch soldering tutorial

In this little tutorial I am going to quickly demonstrate how to use WILDER soldering flux while also displaying the advantages of using soldering as a way to assemble larger copper and photo etched parts. Here we see a fender included with the Trumpeter Krupp/Ardelt Waffentrager 88mm PAK-43 kit along with the prepared copper and Aber brass tread plate that will make up its replacement.
 
 
The products we will use are some different sets of tweezers, and brush to apply the liquid flux and some .015 silver-bearing soldering wire without a rosin core.
 
 
After locating and firmly securing the parts brush on some of the flux to where the solder will be applied. 
 
 
After properly adjusting the heat of your soldering iron deposit a bit of soldering wire onto the end as shown. I normally use a 220-24V iron that can be purchased for around 10 Dollars in most electronics stores.
 
 
Touch the area containing the flux with your iron letting the solder flow between the parts.
 
 
 You can use a sander to clean any of the unwanted solder that might cause texture when the model is painted.
 
 
 
 
By firmly securing the inner corner of the fender into a bending tool you can add authentic bends and dents while keeping the inner plane straight. Keeping the inner side straight will allow you to properly glue it onto the side of the model.
 
 
 Using solder to attach large brass and copper parts like the ones making up these fenders will give you a stronger bond than when using superglue allowing you create authentic looking bends adding much more character to simple models such as this Krupp/Ardelt Waffentrager.
 


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