Painting and weathering the Whippet - Chapter 3 - Chipping

Adam Wilder effects gunpowder line Martin Kováč nitroline tutorial Weathering oils

Hello and welcome back at this virtual workbench!

I’m gonna indulge myself a lot in this chapter as chipping is my favorite painting technique. I think you’ll be able to tell by yourselves once you see the entire model chipped!

The truth is I like to add large amounts of fine chips for several reasons. First, I enjoy it. It’s a slow-paced precise technique that requires patience and skill. The more you do it, the better you get and you’ll benefit from that extra precision in your hands in other parts of modeling as well. Second, it adds a lot of texture to the model‘s surface. And last, a lot of it gets toned down with weathering, so in the end, it will all look just alright (that last bit depends on each person’s perspective of course).

So let’s get started!

I always start with a lighter version of the base coat. In this case, I picked the same color I used before for highlighting the rivet detail and thinned it down with tap water.

Most of the time I begin the process by highlighting the edges. Note that I’m using the side of the brush, sliding it along the edge.

Then I start dragging the chipped areas toward the center of the panel. Also, note how I work in small segments. I divided this sponson into thirds and chipped them one by one.

Finally, I paint small horizontal scratches. These require some more practice than regular chips, but they’re a lot of fun to do.

After I’m done with the lighter scrapes, I mix a dark gray tone that simulates the bare metal underneath the base coat.

Fill the previously painted light chips with this tone, but don’t cover them completely. The trick is to leave a tiny edge around the dark gray chip, which will create a fake 3D effect and make the chipping stand out from the surface.

This is how the sponson looked with the chipping finished. It’s very extensive and sometimes in places where it wouldn’t probably occur, but that’s all fine as we’ll see later. Try to combine small fine chips with large uneven areas of worn paint to make the effect look more interesting.

Now it’s time to mix a rust tone. I added a small amount of pigment into the enamel rust effect to make it a bit lighter and more opaque.

Wipe the excess paint away from the brush as we need to be precise with the application.

Deposit the rust effect over the chips. If we weren’t precise, we would cover too much of the model’s surface, making it look like an abandoned rusty tank.

As we don’t want to wipe the effect away either, we should remove excess thinner from the brush in order to blend the effect precisely.

Blend only the edges of the rust spots, don’t go over the entire effect. If made correctly, we will obtain a subtle, faded, slightly rusty effect that makes the chipping look more natural without turning the model into a rusty hulk (well, at least in my opinion).


And that’s pretty much it for today friends! Stay tuned as tomorrow we’re bringing you a very interesting chapter.

Chipping is a really controversial topic amongst armor modelers so take what you like from this chapter or simply discard it entirely if you’re not a fan of it.



Make love, not war. Drop bass, not bombs.

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  • Héctor Beron on

    Excelente. Sumamente didáctico. Gracias

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